My 3 Travel Secrets... shhhhhh!

Katie over at Tripbase recently emailed me asking if I would share 3 of my travel secrets for their Best Kept Travel Secrets Project . Of course I agreed. I mean what good's a secret unless you can share it? So without further ado, my 3 Travel Secrets:

Travel Secret# 1
1) Go South (Oh come on, you had to know that was coming!)
Seriously, one of the best kept travel secrets in Italy is southern Italy! Sure there are the famous spots like Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast but push yourself down the boot even further and you'll be richly rewarded.

3 Towns to Visit in Southern Italy:

1) The Sassi of Matera- Collectively Matera's city of cave dwellings, churches, shops and restaurants are known as sassi, the plural form of sasso. The uniqueness of this town carved from rock in southern Basilicata has not been lost on the UNESCO people either as they have deemed the sassi worthy of World Heritage status. The sassi originate from a prehistoric (troglodyte) settlement and are thought to be some of the first human settlements in Italy. The town which once bore the stigma of poverty now hosts a number of hotels and private apartments with modern-day sometimes down right luxurious- amenities.

(Read Matera Trip post here.)

2) Lecce- The “Florence of the South,” is the boast most often attributed to Lecce but it really is its own city. The warm, creamy local stone has been whipped and carved into a beautiful frothy sea of baroque wonder. Lecce is like a fairytale land put in the hands of a master baker who creates nothing but the most romantic creations for brides on their wedding day. It is so delicious you'll want to take a slice home with you and slip it under your pillow.

(Read Lecce Trip Report here.)

3) Alberobello- The weird and wonderful trulli are what visitors come to Alberobello for. These odd, conical, limestone and mortarless structures have been renovated into agriturismos, restaurants, and shops to the delight of the modern traveler. The trulli of Alberobello were made an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

(Read related blog posts for interesting southern Italian Towns here.)

Travel Secret# 2
Go To Sicily. There is a reason they say you haven't seen Italy until you've been to Sicily.

3 Reasons to Visit:

1) Mt Etna- When was the last time you were on an active volcano? How about hiking, biking, skiing, snowboarding, or sledding on an active volcano? Mt Etna remains not only Europe's tallest volcano but one of the world's most active. After conquering the volcano take it easy riding the rails on the Ferrovia Circumetnea from Catania and around the volcano to Riposo.

2) Teatro Greco Siracusa- Why not watch a Greek tragedy written in the year 416 B.C. by Euripides in an original Greek theater carved from stone during the 5th century B.C. (Did you catch all those B.C.s???!) Now that's living history.

(Read related blog post here.)

3) The Salt Road from Trapani to Marsala- It is just so unexpected (or it was to me) to discover windmills in Sicily. Their presence is due to the salt industry which historically utilized them for pumping water and grinding the salt. Along the road from Trapani to Marsala you will encounter dazzling mounds of white sea salt and large areas of shallow waters where the sun and wind act to evaporate the water creating salt flats ranging in color from off-green to pink.

Travel Secret# 3

Slow Down

I have a good Sicilian friend who shakes his head at the tourists, "You've been everywhere but you've seen nothing!" he scorns. It's true. You cannot know a place unless you slow down.

3 Ways to Slow Down:

1) Stay at an Agriturismo- Agriturismi (plural of agriturismo), or farm stays have become quite popular in Italy. From rustic to luxurious there is an accommodation to suite just about everyone. Many offer meals featuring ingredients from their own gardens with a focus on regional cuisine. Some agriturismi welcome guests to participate in harvesting olives or grapes depending on the time of year, or take part in cooking classes.

2) Rent an Apartment- Renting an apartment for a week or even a few nights means you get to live like a local, at least for a short while. A good site to start your search from is HomeAway.com.

3) Book a meal with Home Food- If nothing else, try to schedule a dinner through Home Food. Sponsored, supported, and partnered by and with the Italian government and the University of Bologna, the organization aims to spread the culture of traditional food. They achieve this end by inviting guests in to homes of Italian families “to taste foods cooked by the lady of the house, the repository of the old culinary ways and methods.”

(Read related Home Food blog post here.)

To be honest, it was very hard to limit myself. There are so many fantastic places to discover in southern Italy and Sicily. But for now, I need someone to share their 3 secrets for dealing with winter storms. DC is headed into yet another blizzard with 16-24 inches being predicted. Oh Mammia, take me back to sunny Sicily!

Lucia Madre

My friend Lucia I met in Okinawa, Japan 7 years ago. We weren't close in the conventional sense, we didn't do the daily gossip, go shopping, get our nails done (yes, a big deal in Okinawa!). In some ways we were quite different. She was a new mom and I was newly married with no children. Her days were spent with other moms, doing mom/kid stuff like play group visits to fire stations and baby sitter coops. You know how mysterious it can all seem when you aren't a mother! And my days? Most likely they were being spent behind my sewing machine, stitching up hand bags from tattered kimonos and obis to be sold on base.

But in between Lucia and I did connect. We shared an interest, a deep interest in the island and its' people, mostly the arts. Okinawa has fantastic pottery and textile guilds. It was always a joy to talk to Lucia, compare notes and share new discoveries. I fondly recall the baby shower a group of girls gave me at Lucia's home. Looking back now it seems very right that this talented, caring, and creative woman was part of my transition into motherhood.

Lucia Madre, I captured this photo in the port of Procida (an island off the coast of Naples) last summer with her in mind. At the time we were preparing to leave Italy for the US and Lucia and her family were leaving the US for a new life in Sicily. Lucia's blog, Dim Sum, Bagels, and Crawfish is a refreshing dose of family life interwoven with personal discoveries and travel adventure. It has been such pleasure reliving our island days through Lucia's words and photography (fantastic photography!). If you haven't done so already, please stop by and say "Ciao!"

The "Cin Cin" Pillow

I thought I would share one of the gifts I made for my good friend (and publisher!), Kari. I wrote about it over on my family blog but thought my South of Rome readers might enjoy it too since it has an Italian theme.Kari and I met in Sicily and became good friends (obviously or I wouldn't be making her a gift!). Together we explored the island during our weekly "Adventure Days," as we came to call them. We did everything from staying the night in a convent to wild asparagus picking -- with lots of wine tasting in between. All in all, it was great fun. On one particular day we ventured to a town specifically to "research" the goods at a chocolate shop I had read about. As always, we skirted in just before riposo, the afternoon break. Before they could kick us out though we managed to grab a couple of goodies, including this biscotti tin (filled with cookies).

This past summer I made outdoor curtains with painter's drop cloths for our new back porch. I happened to have an extra cloth which I've been cutting up into various projects (including my son's Luke Skywalker Halloween costume). The fabric was the perfect weight for Kari's pillow. The first thing I did was scan a side of the biscotti tin. I made a reverse image on the computer and then printed it onto Inkjet transfer paper. Next, I ironed the image onto a piece of fabric, trimmed the sides, and then stitched the whole piece onto the top piece of my pillow.

While Kari and I were in Sicily we shared a column titled, Cin Cin that was published in the American base paper, The Signature. One week she would write about wine and the following week I would write about food. So, next up was a freezer paper stencil with "Cin Cin." Almost done, I thought the pillow needed something a little 3 dimensional and organic. The carved coconut buttons fit the bill perfectly.

There you have it, my Italian Cin Cin pillow. Hope you liked it!

Her Life

It's still early morning even though the church bells have ceased. Lost in thought, she hangs sheets then towels, securing each corner with a plastic clip. On this coast you never know when the wind will pick up, scattering pieces of laundry across rooftops. Does she pause to look down, picking out those she knows from all those others? Of course, at this hour it would be mostly locals, Zia or Zio, a childhood schoolmate or two, perhaps even an old crush. The buses and boats have yet to arrive with their loads. Does she admire the view? Or is she flustered by all she must do? I wonder, is there a mother to care for or young nipoti, or both?

*Zia, Aunt
*Zio, Uncle
*nipoti, grandchildren

This photo was taken from our rooftop apartment we rented for a week last June in Amalfi. It's hard to get a view of the water if you are down in the town of Amalfi. For a view, you must climb the stairs up. Sometimes thousands of stairs up! We wanted to be able to walk easily with the kids and opted for an in-town apartment. This place does not have water views (even though they have posted photos of the water on their listing). It does have a nice roof top balcony with a view of Amalfi's Duomo. It is a wonderful place to sit in the mornings with your caffè e cornetto and again in the evening per un aperitivo.

Also, I signed up for Italian classes, again! I decided as long as I was taking my son to class every week I might as well stay and learn something myself. Wish me luck!

Resolutions Were Made To Be Broken

(Dang, I didn’t even make it 30 days!)

Remember how I wrote (way back on New Year’s Eve) that I was quitting this blog? Yeah, well, I’m not. I can’t. Italy is under my skin and that’s that. So go ahead, cue the music, “You change your mind like a girl changes clothes…” and please forgive my indecisiveness. I’ve come to terms with myself and realized the simple truth, I’m an Italophile!

So what does all this mean? No clue. No promises on scheduled posts or topics. I can promise lots of photos though. I think that’s what did me in. I started editing and organizing the 3 billion images I captured over the last four years. It just seems a waste to keep them stored on my hard drive when I can share them with you here, right?

The above is one of the (many) images I played with over the weekend. At first I felt it was over done, too soft and sappy. But then it started to grow on me and I decided I liked the soft, romantic feel of it. I also like that it reminds me of our time on the Amalfi Coast, that little slice of heaven. I think it’ll be a perfect addition to our DC home. Once it’s framed and hung I’ll take a photo of it and let you weigh in. (That might take a while though!)

I also wanted to say I felt bad for leaving you hanging... see, I didn't stop blogging. I just stopped blogging here. Since our first overseas duty station in Okinawa, Japan in 2003 I've been blogging (and blogging and blogging). The web address has stayed the same even though though our mailing address kept changing! (Okinawa, Sicily, Naples, DC) If you care to read about the mundane, crafty and kid-filled days of our lives you can always click over and say hello.

*The photo is of the beach in Atrani, just south of Amalfi

My New Year’s Resolution…

Is to tie up loose ends…

(Pisa New Year's Day 2009)

Gulp.
Here we go.

In my head I’ve written this post a 100, no make that a 1000 times. Since last December when we officially found out we were leaving Italy and returning to the United States I have struggled with the blog question, as in, what to do with it? At the time I had six months ahead of me, but now I’m six months out. Early on I rationalized that my indecision was a wise strategy allowing me time to settle into a new life before either: a) carrying on and growing the blog or b) shuttering it.

Well, here I am in my new life and I like it very much. I loved Italy and still do, but I can no longer find the time (or motivation) to continue blogging about it. In any case, there are so many fine bloggers out there (some of the best of which are in southern Italy. Ok, I’m biased!) Our family has high hopes of returning to live in Italy within the next few years but for now I'm content to live our life in the US. (Yeah, and my brother told me to get over it and move on. Isn't family great for letting you know when you're in a rut?!)

To whatever readers are left after this rocky transition I want to thank you! Living in Italy was an amazing experience that in a large part was made better through this blog. “South of Rome” pushed me out of my comfort zone on many occasions. Knowing I had to present ‘good’ information forced me to ask questions and get answers! Not always an easy thing to do. The site also put me in contact with like minded bloggers living in the boot. I feel privileged to have been part of such a strong blogging community. I enjoyed reading about shared experience from language blunders to cultural missteps, in addition to learning new things about my temporary home. At the time, it was great fun.

So there you have it. I’ve cut the cord, answered the blog question, tied up my loose ends. Look at that! It’s only New Year’s Eve and I’ve already managed to fulfill my New Year’s Resolution.

Arrivederci il mio Blog, arrivederci!

Naples In My In-Box

What a surprise to have a little taste of Naples waiting in my in-box this morning. An even bigger surprise? I was the author! Yes, today a small "note" written by me was featured on Italian Notebook. "Pulcinella: The Loveable Mascot of Naples" can be read here.

If you have a quick eye (like Barbara who wasted no time emailing me!) you may be thinking, Wait! Did Karen move back to Naples?! My heart took a leap too! But the truth is that I wrote this way back when we were still residents of the bel paese. Thus, today's note was a fun trip down memory lane and it made me hungry for pizza and pasta... and a jug of wine!