South of Rome

In Memory of Anna Tasca Lanza

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Mon, 02 Aug 2010 12:02:00 +0000

With a heavy heart I read last week of Anna's passing. If you are familiar with Anna Tasca Lanza, her cookbooks, or her cooking school, I know the news will sadden you as well. In the summer of 2007 I was fortunate to visit with her at Case Vecchie in Sicily with my good friend, and publisher, Kari Hock. At the time we had wondered if we would be her last 2 students. Thus, we were thrilled to discover in the fall of 2008 that Fabrizia, her daughter was on the scene and that the school was going no where, indeed, it was growing!

Fabrizia pens a wonderful monthly newsletter from Sicily. And although the news was heartbreaking, she shared a touching story of her mother's last days in the last issue. She recounts her mother's lack of appetite and fussiness when it came to eating.

"One day I decided I would dare something new,

since she had always had a love for fresh,

rather acidic and sweet flavors.

With the fresh citruses from the garden,

I made a lemon granita.

She ate it, and in a whisper she said, "Squisito."

This is the last comprehensible word I recall my mother saying.

I love her so much for this last present,

for being capable of appreciating quality

and pleasure up to her last moments...I will never forget it. "

Thank you, Fabrizia.

And Thank you, Anna.

You have given this world a gift. By sharing your way of life, the culture of Sicily lives on on the tables of not only Sicily, but around the globe. In memory of you, I pull down my much loved "The Heart of Sicily," flip to page 101, and start baking a crostata, jam tart. Although, I dare say, I no longer need the recipe I have made it so many times. But the book is lovely and the pictures hold my interest while my pastry rests.

Stuck on Italy: Italian Wall Decals

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Tue, 01 Jun 2010 18:38:00 +0000

During one of my frequent Internet wanderings I clicked, clicked, clicked my way to an ETSY shop selling the Leaning Tower of Pisa as a wall decal. Ooohhh, I squealed with delight. And then I thought about it. Really, would I really put this on my wall? After a few moments pondering I decided the answer was no. I could not put it on my wall. The kids' walls? Well now, that's another story-- especially that scooter down below!

Here are a selection of wall decals I came across with Italian themes. Perhaps they'll find a home on your wall.

Leaning Tower of Pisa from OrqueShaw's Walldecor

Vino Vinyl Wall Art from WallStar Graphics

Roman Colosseum from Stickerbrand

Tuscany from ShaNickers

Cucina from Janey Mac

Italian Scooter from Slaps

Bon Appétit in Puglia

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Tue, 25 May 2010 08:00:00 +0000

Che delicioso!

Bon Appétit magazine's annual travel issue (May 2010) dips down into the southern heel of Italy in "Less is More, Italian-Style" by Jack Turner.

Turner tastes his way through Puglia writing,"Puglia is to cucina povera what New Orleans is to jazz or Memphis is to the blues"-- nicely said, Mr. Turner! Sadly the article cannot be accessed online (quick, run out and get the May issue-- if it's not too late!!).

Fortunately BA kindly posted "Food of Puglia Menu for 6" from the same issue. In this mini post Donatella Arpaia, a New York restaurateur with familial ties to Puglia, reminisces about her southern Italian summers spent alongside her Grandmother and Aunts.

The Menu includes recipes for the following:

After sharing my Puglian meal in Martina Franca with you last week, you can bet I'll be making the Fava and Potato Puree dish sometime soon.

Do you think you'll give any of these dishes a try?

The Memory of the Meal: Martina Franca

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Mon, 17 May 2010 15:04:00 +0000

Last Friday I shared a snapshot of Martina Franca and today I would like to share one of our most memorable Italian meals from the same city.

When I was still in High School my oldest brother and his girlfriend moved to southern Italy for her job. No one could ever remember the name of the city or had any clue on how to pronounce it. “Sounds like Karen’s Toes” was the trick I used- and shared- as a means to remember the name, Taranto. Now I know better and that’s not really how it’s pronounced but at the time none of our friends or family had much knowledge of Italy or Italian pronunciation.

Although Theresa (now my married to my brother, Bill for over 16 years!) worked in Taranto they lived in Martina Franca. I recall long letters home from Bill- not prone to being chatty, unlike moi- describing the passegiata, gelato, and the pizza. Boy, I think he spent two pages just describing Quattro Stagione!

Unfortunately, their time living abroad was cut short when my father unexpectedly died. Moments that have great impact on you have a tendency to become frozen in memory. Martina Franca, although a place my father never went, became intricately entwined with memories of my dad. Perhaps it was because we read my brothers letters together or spent so much time discussing their life in Italy in the weeks just before he died.

During this period that my brother was living in Italy, my father was also embarking on his own adventure: attending culinary school in anticipation of opening my family’s Bed & Breakfast (it opened a few months after he died). I've always thought of my father as a foodie, even though that term has only recently come into vogue. For me, trying new foods and being mindful or regional differences is a way I honor my father’s memory. And so it was last May when my family (whom my father never knew) sat down in a small piazza in Martina Franca.

Cucina rustica defines Ai Portici and it is fantastic. We sampled such Puglian specialties as homemade taralli, cozze gratinate, formaggi freschi locali (including scamorzine), orecchiette (plain for the kids!), and purea di fave con cicoria e peperoni (pureed fava beans with chicory and peppers). Of course this was all washed down with a local white wine (a few bottles made their way back Stateside with us!).

Ai Portici
6 Piazza Maria Immacolata
Martina Franca
39-080/480-1702

Photo Friday: Martina Franca

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Fri, 14 May 2010 16:37:00 +0000

Where white washed simplicity marries baroque extravagance you'll find Martina Franca (Puglia).

Yet another reason to go south.

Read about Martina Franca here and here and here.

First-Time Highlights for a Trip to Calabria

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Wed, 12 May 2010 08:00:00 +0000

Welcome Guest blogger Cherrye from My Bella Vita!

If you don't already follow her blog, what the heck are you waiting for! Get on over there for a healthy dose of southern Italian living. Cherrye has great insight and style, she is the go-to gal for travel in Calabria! Thanks for joining us on South of Rome, Cherrye!

****************

First-Time Highlights for a Trip to Calabria

written by Cherrye Moore

The Internet is full of bloggers and writers who have fallen in love with the bel paese. Many of these experts focus on the north … even the King of European Travel, Rick Steves, has never ventured farther south than Naples. Which is why I love Karen’s South of Rome blog so much.

Like Karen, I’m slightly obsessed with southern Italy travel, so when she volunteered her site as a platform for me to talk about Calabria, I couldn’t resist.

Many people who visit Calabria want to know a little about the “must see” sights and honestly, between the ruins, castles, beaches, mountains, villages and cities it’s hard to settle on just a few.
But I’ll try. Here is my pick of things to see on a first-time trip to Calabria.

1. Le Castella

Le Castella is an ancient Argonese fortress that is thought to be the castle where Calypso held Ulysses hostage in Homer’s The Odyssey. It is hands down my favorite attraction in Calabria, not only because it looks like a giant sand castle sitting on an islet in the Ionian Sea, but also for the sleepy little town the castle calls home.

The Micomare Restaurant is a nice choice for a seafood lunch and has some of the best castle views in the village.

You can read a bit more about Le Castella here.

2. Villaggio Mancuso

This tiny Alpine village is located inside La Sila National Park and is one of the most charming one-road, no stop light towns I’ve ever seen. Regardless of the season, the natural beauty that surrounds the village is alive, with either dancing snowflakes, black squirrels, summertime flowers or falling leaves.

Villa Marinella is located just outside of Villaggio Mancuso in Villaggio Racise and is one of my favorite restaurants in the region for their first-rate customer service, homemade antipasto dishes and spinach cannoli.

You can read more about Villaggio Mancuso and La Sila here.

3. Tropea and Pizzo

Ok, so technically I’m cheating here because Tropea and Pizzo are two different villages … but they are only 18 miles apart and many people visit them in one day.

Tropea is the most well-known beach resort in Calabria. From the historical center, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the Tyrrhenian coast, while the bright emerald green waters are some of the most enticing in the Mediterranean.

Nearby, Pizzo is home to the nationally-famous Tartufo di Pizzo gelato and the Chiesetta di Piedigrotta . It is also one of the most quintessential southern Italian fishing villages and is the perfect place to wander the streets and get lost.

You can read more about Tropea and Pizzo here.

Cherrye Moore is a freelance writer and Calabria travel consultant living in southern Italy. She writes about expat life for AffordableCallingCards.net and about living and traveling in Calabria on her site My Bella Vita.

Cave Dining Over the Adriatic Sea, Puglia

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Mon, 03 May 2010 17:38:00 +0000

Photo Credit: Grotta Pallazzese

During our southern Italian travels Polignano a Mare in Puglia would inevitably pop up on our radar for one excellent reason: Grotta Pallazzese. Although TripAdvisor reviews are a mixed bag, the very idea of dining in a limestone cavern suspended over the Adriatic sea was like a siren’s call to me. The Grotta Pallazzese website describes the summer cave as being … “naturally lit by the aqua marine reflection from the waters, the summer cavern has been the scene of many a romantic moment since local nobility held banquets there in the 1700s.”

sigh...
but alas we never made it.

The summer cave is open May-October.

go. go. go.

And then tell me about it.

Free Photo Magnet

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Sun, 25 Apr 2010 19:09:00 +0000

Since I shared a free photo canvas yesterday I thought I would share a free photo magnet offer I found today. I always liked this image of a pescheria (seafood shop) that was located at the bottom of the staircase from our Amalfi rental (you can read about it in this post). I imagine Laura of Ciao Amalfi has walked by this very spot many, many times!

To get your free magnet, visit CVS Photo and follow the steps to upload a photo and make a magnet. At checkout enter code FREE4MOM and it will deduct the entire cost of the magnet. Since I have a CVS down the street from me I opted for in-store delivery making my magnet absolutely free, ZERO! I can't wait to hang some of my son's pre-K artwork on the fridge with my new Amalfi magnet.

Buona Domenica!

Free Photo Canvas

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Sat, 24 Apr 2010 18:21:00 +0000

Remember this photo from this blog post?

I just came across an offer for a free photo canvas from CanvasPeople.com and decided why not? Of course, the free offer is for the small (8x10) size, which I did not buy. Fortunately, they are nice enough to apply the $55 value to all their other larger sizes. I have never tried to put a photo on canvas before but I think it would be a neat way to showcase your travel photos. Why buy artwork on your travels when you can create your own?

Something to remember when choosing your photo-- the canvas wraps around the frame; therefore, you'll need to pick a image that has stuff along the sides you don't mind loosing. In the picture above I tried to minimize the amount of bell tower that would be wrapped and ended up with the 16x20 size.

No matter which size you choose, you will still be on the hook for shipping and handling. And as a disclaimer, this is the first time I've ordered from this company, so I cannot speak for their quality. I'll let you know my thoughts when mine arrives. Hopefully soon!

Good luck choosing a photo. I had a really, really hard time.

Filmfest DC: Italy

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Sun, 18 Apr 2010 23:33:00 +0000

I've got tickets in hand (ok, at will call) for tomorrow's show, Sicilian Girl. (Supposedly) based on a true story, the film is about Rita, a young girl growing up in a Mafia Family. After witnessing her father's murder she sets out to avenge his death, beginning with keeping detailed diary entries on the illicit activity taking place around her. Judging from the trailer it has all the twists and turns to satisfy any underworld, crime loving movie buff. I can hardly wait!

Friends at the Margherita Café (set in Bologna, 1954) also looks interesting. Who can resist a description like this, "Pupi Avati was "inspired by real characters." There's the tailor who specializes in swindling priests and nuns, the would-be singer who's written a tune about the café, and the lusty Sicilian who’s obsessed with ladies' underwear—and wants a pair of X-ray glasses. "-- Oh those lusty Sicilians!

Here's the link to other Italian films being shown this year's Filmfest DC. I wish I could see them all.

~~~~

Wait! Maybe I can see them all. I just checked Netflix and just about all of them were available. I found it easiest to search by director name instead of the English translated title. I haven't had Netflix in years since it wasn't easy to use while living overseas. Now I see they have instant streaming. Is this true for all the titles? I'm going to have to investigate this! Che fantastico!

If You Have Kids

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Fri, 09 Apr 2010 18:00:00 +0000

The world's most romantic song meets Elmo's World. Seriously, I couldn't stop laughing over the lyrics. This, I think, would be most enjoyed by those with kids in the pre-k/k set, but if you love Andrea Bocelli give it a listen.

Happy Friday!

Easter in Sicily, from Di Casa in Sicilia

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Thu, 25 Mar 2010 16:11:00 +0000

Karen here, below is some information on Sicily's unique folk customs during the Easter celebration brought to you by Di Casa in Sicilia. I have never personally used them for booking a rental home, however they are clearly connected to the island and very passionate about Sicily. Di Casa in Sicilia, Thank you for sharing your insight.

Sicily at Easter Among Folk Customs & “Mysteries”
(Written by Di Casa in Sicilia/ All Photos by Alfio Garozzo)

Sicily is the richest Italian region in terms of festival, events and folk customs connected to the Holy Week. Among the most evocative and renowned religious manifestations of devotion are the mysteries of Trapani. Many other can be found between the Madonie and Nebrodi mountains, Palermo and Ragusa, making the Easter time one of the most characteristic periods of the year in which one can discover the authentic charm of this island.

The union between sacred and secular is one of the most meaningful characteristics of Sicilian culture and Easter is undoubtedly one of the religious celebration that more accentuates this dualism. All over the island, in large towns and tiny villages alike, processions weave their way through narrow streets and squares: saints’ statues carried on the shoulders by those devoted become the main attraction, surrounded by lights, stalls with meat, fruit and sweets, in a mix of mysticism and religiosity. The Spanish – Jesuit inheritance of religious festivals has a long tradition in the ancestral pagan traditions that used to mark the arrival of the Spring which has been incorporated into the religious festivities.

The mysteries in Trapani on Good Friday is undoubtedly one of the most ancient and evocative celebrations of the week preceding Easter. This religious manifestation, in which the townsmen carry statues through the streets, has Spanish origins and has been taking place for over 400 years. Each statue is made out of wood by the best Trapani’s artisans. One by one the statues represent the stations of the cross, and thousands of Sicilians line the streets awaiting the arrival of the Virgin Mary in search of her son.

The mysteries tradition is not only celebrated in Trapani, but also in the close medieval village of Erice and in Marsala, where instead of the wooden statues there is a wonderful representation of the stations of the cross. These processions have kept intact the theatrical aspect of the performance as it was in Medieval time.

There are many interesting events not to miss if you're visiting Sicily at Easter and want to taste the atmosphere of age-old traditions. DiCasaInSicilia is the perfect partner for those who want to experience an unforgettable holiday in Sicily, with a wide selection of charming accommodations in or in the direct vicinity of the old town centres where some of the most beautiful Holy Week processions of the island take place.

About Di Casa in Sicilia
We are a young team but come with experience and a deep knowledge of the country. Since 1992 we have offered an exclusive selection of villas, houses of charm and holiday apartments, that differ in type, location and atmosphere.

We are specialists at satisfying every need, providing tailor made and high quality services, assisting in the country, keeping constantly in touch with our clients.

These are our values, that are always present to suggest the best holiday accommodation in the most striking settings, from sea to cities full of art, from countryside to the smaller islands experience, and that contribute to making our guests holiday a happy, relaxed experience, discovering the true soul of this wonderful island: Sicily.

Di Casa In Sicilia S.a.s.
Via Luca della Robbia 7
98060 Marina di Patti (ME)
ITALIA

Related Posts:

Pranzo at Emilio's and Mariska's

Cristo alla Colonna Procession

Catania with My Morning Coffee

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 08:30:00 +0000

As much as I miss living in Italy there are a few things I thoroughly enjoy about living back in the United States. The morning paper -home delivery- for one. Yes, Italy has papers but let's get real, my Italian isn't that good. On the few occasions I challenged myself it took me a week to get through one days worth of news. (Although, language aside, even here in the US it can take me a week to get through a single paper thanks to a distracting 2 year old toddler and her brother!) On Wednesday's the Washington Post has a Food section which I typically flip to first. It's not often robust but it's better than their Travel section, which is downright shameful. Yesterday I could swear my eyes were playing tricks on me, Zuppa di Pesce alla Catanese. What did that say? Catanese? Catanese. Catanese!

Yes, as in Catania, Sicily that special place from where I penned my own book, In Etna's Shadow. I didn't know the author of this particular article but a quick read revealed the source of the recipe: Clifford Wright. Ahhhh, yes, Clifford Wright. Well that makes sense. Clifford is a prolific cookbook writer with a focus on the Mediterranean. His book, Cucina Paradiso: The Heavenly Food of Sicilywas a great resource for me while I was researching information on the Arab connection to Sicily and now it appears he has yet another book, The Best Soups in the World.

Of course, it's no surprise that the featured soup from "The Best Soups in the World" cookbook is from Catania ;)

Recipe: Zuppa di Pesce alla Catanese

You Say Venezia

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 19:21:00 +0000

I say Vegas.

~~~

I spent last weekend in Las Vegas.

My oh my.

What an interesting place.

I think I much prefer Venezia.

E tu?

~~~

*The photos are of the Venetian, one of the many Italian themed casinos along the strip.

Ristorante Silly

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Tue, 02 Mar 2010 14:58:00 +0000

I wanted to share one of my favorite restaurants with you. It's a bit hard to find, tucked, as it is, at the bottom of a steep stairwell. The menu is rather plain but the prices are cheap, dirt cheap. The services is friendly if sporadic. And the food, well, no one really comes for the food. It can be a bit bland, plastic in some cases.

It's best to plan ahead for Ristorante Silly. A stack of newspaper ads, a glue stick and paper is all you'll need to get the menu under way. We played Ristorante Silly (my son named it!) over and over during our endless snow days followed by more sick days. It's a great way to get familiar with an Italian menu and how to order in an Italian restaurant.

Here are some restaurant words/phrases to get you going:

Vuole qualcosa da mangiare?

Would you like something to eat?

Vuole qualcosa da bere?

Would you like something to drink?

To answer say, Si, vorrei .... fill in the blank with what you would like to eat or drink. For example, Si, vorrei un fanta e una pizza. Yes, I would like a fanta and a pizza.

Try using some of these words...Antipasto della casa (House appetizer), Zuppa del giorno (soup of the day), Ravioli, Spaghetti, Pizza, Gelato....

To wrap it all up don't forget to ask for the check, Il conto, per favore.

There are endless variations on playing ristorante, so have fun, be silly and learn some Italian along the way!

Here are some additional sites to help spark your imagination:

Smart Phrase Italian Food and Drink, this would be good to print and use while playing. Scroll to the bottom and click on other vocabulary lists like meat, vegetables, fruit.

Slow Travel Italy Sample Menu

Slow Travel Italy Italian Language Lesson: Going out for dinner

About.com Italian Survival Phrases: Dining Out

About.com Italian Audio Phrasebook: Table Service

101 Languages, Italian Restaurant Vocabulary

Pisa My Heart, My Corny Valentine

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:14:00 +0000

I'm fully holding the Blizzard of 2010 accountable for this. Apparently those white-out conditions afflicted my ability to come up with anything better than, "You've Gotta Pisa My Heart!" Italian-themed Valentine. Eeshhh.. I know, I know. Forgive me. I'm just hoping the group of 4 year-olds in my son's Italian class get it. What does it matter, they're only in it for the chocolate anyway!

If for some far out reason you would care to make you own, you will need:

1) Card Stock

2) Paper cutter, scissors

3) Heart candy

4) Ribbon

5) Plastic Bags

6) A color printer

Download my MS Word templates for the front and the back (or create your own, perhaps by using your own Pisa photo!). Print one side on card stock and then, following the directions on your printer, print out the back side. Cut them up, have your child sign them, place them in a bag with some hearts, and tie em up. Easy peasy, I mean, Pisa.

*By the way, this is the first time I've ever tried to link to a site where you can download documents. You do not need to sign in or anything, just click the box. Let me know if it doesn't work or you have problems with the document. I can always email it to you. Or you can just use Pisa clip art from Microsoft and insert them into your document yourself.

Happy Valentine's Day!

My 3 Travel Secrets... shhhhhh!

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Thu, 04 Feb 2010 12:00:00 +0000

Katie over at Tripbase recently emailed me asking if I would share 3 of my travel secrets for their Best Kept Travel Secrets Project . Of course I agreed. I mean what good's a secret unless you can share it? So without further ado, my 3 Travel Secrets:

Travel Secret# 1
1) Go South (Oh come on, you had to know that was coming!)
Seriously, one of the best kept travel secrets in Italy is southern Italy! Sure there are the famous spots like Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast but push yourself down the boot even further and you'll be richly rewarded.

3 Towns to Visit in Southern Italy:

1) The Sassi of Matera- Collectively Matera's city of cave dwellings, churches, shops and restaurants are known as sassi, the plural form of sasso. The uniqueness of this town carved from rock in southern Basilicata has not been lost on the UNESCO people either as they have deemed the sassi worthy of World Heritage status. The sassi originate from a prehistoric (troglodyte) settlement and are thought to be some of the first human settlements in Italy. The town which once bore the stigma of poverty now hosts a number of hotels and private apartments with modern-day sometimes down right luxurious- amenities.

(Read Matera Trip post here.)

2) Lecce- The “Florence of the South,” is the boast most often attributed to Lecce but it really is its own city. The warm, creamy local stone has been whipped and carved into a beautiful frothy sea of baroque wonder. Lecce is like a fairytale land put in the hands of a master baker who creates nothing but the most romantic creations for brides on their wedding day. It is so delicious you'll want to take a slice home with you and slip it under your pillow.

(Read Lecce Trip Report here.)

3) Alberobello- The weird and wonderful trulli are what visitors come to Alberobello for. These odd, conical, limestone and mortarless structures have been renovated into agriturismos, restaurants, and shops to the delight of the modern traveler. The trulli of Alberobello were made an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

(Read related blog posts for interesting southern Italian Towns here.)

Travel Secret# 2
Go To Sicily. There is a reason they say you haven't seen Italy until you've been to Sicily.

3 Reasons to Visit:

1) Mt Etna- When was the last time you were on an active volcano? How about hiking, biking, skiing, snowboarding, or sledding on an active volcano? Mt Etna remains not only Europe's tallest volcano but one of the world's most active. After conquering the volcano take it easy riding the rails on the Ferrovia Circumetnea from Catania and around the volcano to Riposo.

2) Teatro Greco Siracusa- Why not watch a Greek tragedy written in the year 416 B.C. by Euripides in an original Greek theater carved from stone during the 5th century B.C. (Did you catch all those B.C.s???!) Now that's living history.

(Read related blog post here.)

3) The Salt Road from Trapani to Marsala- It is just so unexpected (or it was to me) to discover windmills in Sicily. Their presence is due to the salt industry which historically utilized them for pumping water and grinding the salt. Along the road from Trapani to Marsala you will encounter dazzling mounds of white sea salt and large areas of shallow waters where the sun and wind act to evaporate the water creating salt flats ranging in color from off-green to pink.

Travel Secret# 3

Slow Down

I have a good Sicilian friend who shakes his head at the tourists, "You've been everywhere but you've seen nothing!" he scorns. It's true. You cannot know a place unless you slow down.

3 Ways to Slow Down:

1) Stay at an Agriturismo- Agriturismi (plural of agriturismo), or farm stays have become quite popular in Italy. From rustic to luxurious there is an accommodation to suite just about everyone. Many offer meals featuring ingredients from their own gardens with a focus on regional cuisine. Some agriturismi welcome guests to participate in harvesting olives or grapes depending on the time of year, or take part in cooking classes.

2) Rent an Apartment- Renting an apartment for a week or even a few nights means you get to live like a local, at least for a short while. A good site to start your search from is HomeAway.com.

3) Book a meal with Home Food- If nothing else, try to schedule a dinner through Home Food. Sponsored, supported, and partnered by and with the Italian government and the University of Bologna, the organization aims to spread the culture of traditional food. They achieve this end by inviting guests in to homes of Italian families “to taste foods cooked by the lady of the house, the repository of the old culinary ways and methods.”

(Read related Home Food blog post here.)

To be honest, it was very hard to limit myself. There are so many fantastic places to discover in southern Italy and Sicily. But for now, I need someone to share their 3 secrets for dealing with winter storms. DC is headed into yet another blizzard with 16-24 inches being predicted. Oh Mammia, take me back to sunny Sicily!

Lucia Madre

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Tue, 02 Feb 2010 21:50:00 +0000

My friend Lucia I met in Okinawa, Japan 7 years ago. We weren't close in the conventional sense, we didn't do the daily gossip, go shopping, get our nails done (yes, a big deal in Okinawa!). In some ways we were quite different. She was a new mom and I was newly married with no children. Her days were spent with other moms, doing mom/kid stuff like play group visits to fire stations and baby sitter coops. You know how mysterious it can all seem when you aren't a mother! And my days? Most likely they were being spent behind my sewing machine, stitching up hand bags from tattered kimonos and obis to be sold on base.

But in between Lucia and I did connect. We shared an interest, a deep interest in the island and its' people, mostly the arts. Okinawa has fantastic pottery and textile guilds. It was always a joy to talk to Lucia, compare notes and share new discoveries. I fondly recall the baby shower a group of girls gave me at Lucia's home. Looking back now it seems very right that this talented, caring, and creative woman was part of my transition into motherhood.

Lucia Madre, I captured this photo in the port of Procida (an island off the coast of Naples) last summer with her in mind. At the time we were preparing to leave Italy for the US and Lucia and her family were leaving the US for a new life in Sicily. Lucia's blog, Dim Sum, Bagels, and Crawfish is a refreshing dose of family life interwoven with personal discoveries and travel adventure. It has been such pleasure reliving our island days through Lucia's words and photography (fantastic photography!). If you haven't done so already, please stop by and say "Ciao!"

The "Cin Cin" Pillow

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 17:31:00 +0000

I thought I would share one of the gifts I made for my good friend (and publisher!), Kari. I wrote about it over on my family blog but thought my South of Rome readers might enjoy it too since it has an Italian theme.Kari and I met in Sicily and became good friends (obviously or I wouldn't be making her a gift!). Together we explored the island during our weekly "Adventure Days," as we came to call them. We did everything from staying the night in a convent to wild asparagus picking -- with lots of wine tasting in between. All in all, it was great fun. On one particular day we ventured to a town specifically to "research" the goods at a chocolate shop I had read about. As always, we skirted in just before riposo, the afternoon break. Before they could kick us out though we managed to grab a couple of goodies, including this biscotti tin (filled with cookies).

This past summer I made outdoor curtains with painter's drop cloths for our new back porch. I happened to have an extra cloth which I've been cutting up into various projects (including my son's Luke Skywalker Halloween costume). The fabric was the perfect weight for Kari's pillow. The first thing I did was scan a side of the biscotti tin. I made a reverse image on the computer and then printed it onto Inkjet transfer paper. Next, I ironed the image onto a piece of fabric, trimmed the sides, and then stitched the whole piece onto the top piece of my pillow.

While Kari and I were in Sicily we shared a column titled, Cin Cin that was published in the American base paper, The Signature. One week she would write about wine and the following week I would write about food. So, next up was a freezer paper stencil with "Cin Cin." Almost done, I thought the pillow needed something a little 3 dimensional and organic. The carved coconut buttons fit the bill perfectly.

There you have it, my Italian Cin Cin pillow. Hope you liked it!

Her Life

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Wed, 27 Jan 2010 14:45:00 +0000

It's still early morning even though the church bells have ceased. Lost in thought, she hangs sheets then towels, securing each corner with a plastic clip. On this coast you never know when the wind will pick up, scattering pieces of laundry across rooftops. Does she pause to look down, picking out those she knows from all those others? Of course, at this hour it would be mostly locals, Zia or Zio, a childhood schoolmate or two, perhaps even an old crush. The buses and boats have yet to arrive with their loads. Does she admire the view? Or is she flustered by all she must do? I wonder, is there a mother to care for or young nipoti, or both?

*Zia, Aunt
*Zio, Uncle
*nipoti, grandchildren

This photo was taken from our rooftop apartment we rented for a week last June in Amalfi. It's hard to get a view of the water if you are down in the town of Amalfi. For a view, you must climb the stairs up. Sometimes thousands of stairs up! We wanted to be able to walk easily with the kids and opted for an in-town apartment. This place does not have water views (even though they have posted photos of the water on their listing). It does have a nice roof top balcony with a view of Amalfi's Duomo. It is a wonderful place to sit in the mornings with your caffè e cornetto and again in the evening per un aperitivo.

Also, I signed up for Italian classes, again! I decided as long as I was taking my son to class every week I might as well stay and learn something myself. Wish me luck!

Resolutions Were Made To Be Broken

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Mon, 25 Jan 2010 19:20:00 +0000

(Dang, I didn’t even make it 30 days!)

Remember how I wrote (way back on New Year’s Eve) that I was quitting this blog? Yeah, well, I’m not. I can’t. Italy is under my skin and that’s that. So go ahead, cue the music, “You change your mind like a girl changes clothes…” and please forgive my indecisiveness. I’ve come to terms with myself and realized the simple truth, I’m an Italophile!

So what does all this mean? No clue. No promises on scheduled posts or topics. I can promise lots of photos though. I think that’s what did me in. I started editing and organizing the 3 billion images I captured over the last four years. It just seems a waste to keep them stored on my hard drive when I can share them with you here, right?

The above is one of the (many) images I played with over the weekend. At first I felt it was over done, too soft and sappy. But then it started to grow on me and I decided I liked the soft, romantic feel of it. I also like that it reminds me of our time on the Amalfi Coast, that little slice of heaven. I think it’ll be a perfect addition to our DC home. Once it’s framed and hung I’ll take a photo of it and let you weigh in. (That might take a while though!)

I also wanted to say I felt bad for leaving you hanging... see, I didn't stop blogging. I just stopped blogging here. Since our first overseas duty station in Okinawa, Japan in 2003 I've been blogging (and blogging and blogging). The web address has stayed the same even though though our mailing address kept changing! (Okinawa, Sicily, Naples, DC) If you care to read about the mundane, crafty and kid-filled days of our lives you can always click over and say hello.

*The photo is of the beach in Atrani, just south of Amalfi

My New Year’s Resolution…

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Thu, 31 Dec 2009 01:22:00 +0000

Is to tie up loose ends…

(Pisa New Year's Day 2009)

Gulp.
Here we go.

In my head I’ve written this post a 100, no make that a 1000 times. Since last December when we officially found out we were leaving Italy and returning to the United States I have struggled with the blog question, as in, what to do with it? At the time I had six months ahead of me, but now I’m six months out. Early on I rationalized that my indecision was a wise strategy allowing me time to settle into a new life before either: a) carrying on and growing the blog or b) shuttering it.

Well, here I am in my new life and I like it very much. I loved Italy and still do, but I can no longer find the time (or motivation) to continue blogging about it. In any case, there are so many fine bloggers out there (some of the best of which are in southern Italy. Ok, I’m biased!) Our family has high hopes of returning to live in Italy within the next few years but for now I'm content to live our life in the US. (Yeah, and my brother told me to get over it and move on. Isn't family great for letting you know when you're in a rut?!)

To whatever readers are left after this rocky transition I want to thank you! Living in Italy was an amazing experience that in a large part was made better through this blog. “South of Rome” pushed me out of my comfort zone on many occasions. Knowing I had to present ‘good’ information forced me to ask questions and get answers! Not always an easy thing to do. The site also put me in contact with like minded bloggers living in the boot. I feel privileged to have been part of such a strong blogging community. I enjoyed reading about shared experience from language blunders to cultural missteps, in addition to learning new things about my temporary home. At the time, it was great fun.

So there you have it. I’ve cut the cord, answered the blog question, tied up my loose ends. Look at that! It’s only New Year’s Eve and I’ve already managed to fulfill my New Year’s Resolution.

Arrivederci il mio Blog, arrivederci!

Naples In My In-Box

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:19:00 +0000

What a surprise to have a little taste of Naples waiting in my in-box this morning. An even bigger surprise? I was the author! Yes, today a small "note" written by me was featured on Italian Notebook. "Pulcinella: The Loveable Mascot of Naples" can be read here.

If you have a quick eye (like Barbara who wasted no time emailing me!) you may be thinking, Wait! Did Karen move back to Naples?! My heart took a leap too! But the truth is that I wrote this way back when we were still residents of the bel paese. Thus, today's note was a fun trip down memory lane and it made me hungry for pizza and pasta... and a jug of wine!

Fall Decorating Don'ts

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 16:45:00 +0000

In Georgetown, in Autumn, the decorating tool of choice is the mum. On doorsteps, planters and window boxes their fall colors look just right, a classic choice for an upper class 'hood. And although I can pick up a pot just about anywhere- from Wholefoods to Home Depot- I've resisted the temptation. I just can't shake the wrongfulness of it. In Italy eyebrows would raise when the American family would place the golden and mauve blooms in doorway urns. Tsk, tsk, tsk the neighbor would scold, a little frightened that a person would do such a thing! The mum is not meant for the house of the living, but rather, that of the dead. Even in Italy you can pick up a mum just about anywhere this time of year, but it best be on your way to the cemetery!

Related Post:
Halloween, Tutti i Santi and Il Giorno dei Morti

Currently Loving

karen@inetnasshadow.com (South of Rome) — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 00:41:00 +0000

Ok, so it's not Italian gelato but is sure taste good! I'm currently loving the Spicy Pumpkin ice-cream served up at (the modestly named) Max's Best Ice Cream on Wisconsin Avenue (Glover Park, Washington, D.C.). I keep thinking about how divine it would be paired with homemade apple pie... Oh yeah, I am so back in the USA!