Halloween, Tutti i Santi and Il Giorno dei Morti

HALLOWEEN

There isn’t a real Halloween tradition in Italy, per se. At least nothing like what we’ve done in the US. So this year I’m not concerned with buying bulk candy or carving pumpkins. But that doesn’t mean we won’t be consuming sugar bombs or dressing up.

My son’s school has spent the week making Halloween crafts in preparation for Friday’s party. Floating ghost, flying witches, and swooping bats have been painted on windows. And yesterday he brought home a ghost he colored that had the strangest story attached to it*. He then spent the evening chasing his baby sister around with it. At 3am he woke screaming, “The ghost is going to get me!” That's karma for you kid. But I am thinking friendly pumpkin (not frightening ghost) coloring may be a better activity for a three year old?

OGNISANTI and IL GIORNO DEI MORTI

The day after Halloween is a national holiday, Ognissanti (Tutti I Santi or All Saints’ Day). It originates in pre-Christian tradition as the celebration of the return to earth of witches and demons during this period of agricultural dormancy. However, the Catholic Church stepped in during the 8th century and formalized the day, devoting it to all the saints. So, if you missed praying to the saint on his/her specified date, you can make up for it on November 1. (phew!)

The following day, November 2, although not a national holiday, is recognized in Italy as Il Giorno dei Morti (the day of the dead or an Italian Memorial Day). On this day the cemeteries will be busy with visiting Italians. The family tomb will be cleaned before a red candle and a bundle of flowers, most likely mums, are left behind. In the past week roadside flower stands featuring an array of fall colored chrysanthemums have opened for business. In the past I have been tempted to buy some for the front door, a traditional piece of autumn décor my mother added every year to our house in the US, but in Italy these flowers are reserved solely for dead people. Warning, never bring an Italian a gift of mums!

For Sicilian children this day is particularly joyous: if they were ‘good’ the spirits of the dead will have brought gifts during the night. And of course, this is the day they crunch on cookie bones.

I still remember my first taste of Ossa di Mortu. I was sitting in Italian class at the University of Catania in Sicily a few days before Halloween. Our teachers, who scarcely taught, compensated by regularly bringing cookies to class. On this particular day, I took the plunge, almost cracking a tooth in the process. Ah yes, Sicilian Ossa di Mortu translates as Bones of the Dead. They are extremely hard and stark white, like a bone. Perhaps it was a good lesson after all?

Recipe for Ossa di Mortu, Bones of the Dead from Sicily

Recipe for Uosse de Mort, Bones of the Dead from Basilicata

*A rough translation of the legend, "Jack e La Laneterna" that was attached to my son's ghost is found here in English. It seems an odd story to give a 3 year old don't you think? Consider the first line, "Jack e un gran bevitore di birra." (Jack is a big drinker of beer!)